Spatial characteristics of ocean surface waves

Gemmrich J, Thomson J, Rogers WE, Pleskachevsky A, Lehner S (2016)


Publication Type: Journal article

Publication year: 2016

Journal

Book Volume: 66

Pages Range: 1025-1035

Journal Issue: 8

DOI: 10.1007/s10236-016-0967-6

Abstract

The spatial variability of open ocean wave fields on scales of O (10km) is assessed from four different data sources: TerraSAR-X SAR imagery, four drifting SWIFT buoys, a moored waverider buoy, and WAVEWATCH III model runs. Two examples from the open north-east Pacific, comprising of a pure wind sea and a mixed sea with swell, are given. Wave parameters attained from observations have a natural variability, which decreases with increasing record length or acquisition area. The retrieval of dominant wave scales from point observations and model output are inherently different to dominant scales retrieved from spatial observations. This can lead to significant differences in the dominant steepness associated with a given wave field. These uncertainties have to be taken into account when models are assessed against observations or when new wave retrieval algorithms from spatial or temporal data are tested. However, there is evidence of abrupt changes in wave field characteristics that are larger than the expected methodological uncertainties.

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How to cite

APA:

Gemmrich, J., Thomson, J., Rogers, W.E., Pleskachevsky, A., & Lehner, S. (2016). Spatial characteristics of ocean surface waves. Ocean Dynamics, 66(8), 1025-1035. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-016-0967-6

MLA:

Gemmrich, Johannes, et al. "Spatial characteristics of ocean surface waves." Ocean Dynamics 66.8 (2016): 1025-1035.

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